The overskirt is from Butterick pattern B3906 - Misses Petite Costume (really descriptive name!). Basically, it was for a generic barmaid/housemaid/peasantwoman outfit. The type of fabric used would determine the theme of the costume. I had made it with a brown pinstriped material with an ivory cotton lace trim and a brown ribbon tie, as seen in the pirate photo in the previous post. For Sailor Mars, I will be swapping out the ivory cotton shift for a red taffeta pleated underskirt. The red taffeta will be the same material used in the sailor collar.
I didn't bother buying a pattern for the underskirt. I am basically going to make a shorter version of the black skirt I had made for the Victorian Dress I made earlier in June. I gather the top to a waistband, and make lots of pleats which are sewn to the bottom of the skirt.
I did go back and forth with how to do the bottom of the dress. I could do a gathers, or I could do knife pleats. Looking at Sailor Mar's original skirt, I decided to go with the pleats, even though they will take much longer. The Victorian skirt took 6 hours just to do the pleats. But, having done them once before, it went much faster this time! And, I don't think the skirt is as full, so there were fewer pleats to make.
With the pleats stitched to the bottom, I gathered the top and sewed that inside a simple waistband. I am not sure if I will use hooks or ties to close it. I am thinking about using ties, because I may need to adjust the size depending on the corset I might be wearing with it.
It is lacking in volume, and as anyone who has watched any anime knows, their skirts are never limp and lifeless! I don't want to go full out Lolita, but a petticoat will finish this off nicely.
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